NIPPON,

231 Wickenden St., Providence (331-6861).

Stepping into the tiny front room of Nippon, we were surprised to see only two booths and a small table. But then we were led into the Tatami Room, where eating takes place with flat pillows to sit on. Workday stress, along with shoes, was left at the door of this two-story room. On the lower level, the waiters slip out of their sandals before sliding along on their knees to serve you. Nippon has an impressive list of sashimi appetizers (raw fish or seafood that becomes sushi with the addition of layered fish or wrap-around rice) and larger or innovative makis like the "Philadelphia maki" filled with cream cheese, smoked salmon, and scallions. For dinner, my partner speared the tuna teriyaki ($11.95), a generous portion of fresh tuna that had been marinated, grilled, and topped with sesame seeds. A Japanese jambalaya of a plate!

Full review.